Same-day service in Irvine. Oven, range, dryer, refrigerator, washer, dishwasher & microwave repair by a licensed technician.
We fix all major home appliances — same day, at your home in Irvine
Not cooling, leaking, or making noise? We diagnose and repair all refrigerator problems same-day. Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Sub-Zero, and more — see our refrigerator repair near me guide for cost ranges by brand and problem.
Won't spin, drain, or start? We fix all washing machine issues — top-load and front-load. All brands, all models.
Not heating or taking too long? We replace heating elements, thermal fuses, motors, and belts. Gas and electric dryers.
Burner not lighting, oven not heating? We repair gas and electric ovens, ranges, and cooktops from all major brands — including Wolf and Thermador pro ranges.
Not cleaning, draining, or leaking? We repair all dishwasher problems including pumps, motors, door latches, and control boards.
Not heating, sparking, or door won't close? We repair built-in and countertop microwaves — all major brands. Looking for microwave oven repair near me anywhere in Orange County? Same-day visits, at your home.
The two calls we get most from Irvine homes
Gas oven not heating usually means a worn hot-surface igniter — glowing but too weak to open the gas valve. Electric ovens fail at the bake element or a relay on the control board. In Irvine's newer Great Park and Portola Springs homes we also service pro-style ranges: Wolf igniter modules (see our guide on a Wolf igniter that keeps clicking), Thermador and Viking burner and oven faults — parts these brands stock for decades, so repair beats replacement.
A dryer that runs but won't heat is usually a heating element, thermal fuse, or gas igniter — our guide on a dryer not heating up covers what to check first. LG and Samsung dryers add their own patterns (heater assemblies, moisture-sensor faults), and long vent runs common in Irvine two-story homes make lint-blocked vents a frequent culprit. Same-day repair, gas and electric. See our dryer & dishwasher repair cost breakdown for typical part prices by failure type.
Irvine is a big, varied city for washer calls — master-planned villages built across five decades mean we see everything from 1970s Woodbridge units to Great Park homes finished last year, plus a large share of stacked apartment and condo washers near UCI. The failure pattern is different in each, and knowing which one we're walking into before we ring the doorbell is half the job, so here's what we actually check first.
This is the single most common washer call in Irvine. On front-loaders (LG, Samsung, Electrolux) we pull the pump filter access panel first — a sock, coin, or bra underwire jammed in the drain pump filter accounts for most "won't drain" calls and is a $0 fix once we're in there; if the impeller itself has failed, the pump replacement runs $140–$240. On Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore top-loaders that fill but won't spin, we test the lid switch first (it's the most common failure and a $150–$250 fix), then the shift actuator if the switch checks out ($170–$260). We test with a multimeter before ordering any part, so you're never paying for a guess.
A large share of our Irvine calls come from stacked washer-dryer closets — common in the older Woodbridge, Turtle Rock, and University Park complexes built in the 1970s and '80s for UCI-adjacent renters, and still standard in many newer mid-rise buildings around Jamboree and the Diamond Jamboree corridor. These units are compact stackables, often GE, Whirlpool, or older Kenmore models, crammed into a closet with a few inches of clearance on each side. The repair itself usually isn't harder than a full-size machine — belts, drain pumps, and door boots wear the same way — but reaching the back panel means partially unstacking the dryer first, which is why we budget extra time for these calls rather than quoting the same slot as a garage-set washer. If your building's laundry closet is under 30 inches wide, mention it when you call so we bring a technician who's done this specific job before, not the first available slot — it's the difference between a 45-minute repair and a frustrating hour of moving appliances first.
Beacon Park, Cadence Park, Solis Park, and the rest of the Great Park neighborhoods were built out mostly from 2016 onward, so the washers we see there are almost all under 10 years old — front-load LG and Samsung units are the two most common brands the builders installed. These newer machines fail less on mechanical parts and more on the electronics: LG's OE drain error that fires even with a clear pump filter (usually a pressure sensor hose that's slipped or kinked, a 20-minute fix), and Samsung units that stop mid-cycle and flash a code because of a failed water-level sensor or a control board that's dropped a relay ($180–$320 for the board, model-specific and ordered same-day when possible). Because these homes are recent builds, parts availability is good and most of these repairs are a single visit — it's a very different job than the same brand's 15-year-old unit in an older tract, where sourcing the right board can take longer.
Woodbridge and Northwood were built out mostly through the late 1970s and 1980s, and it's common for us to find a washer in one of those homes that's already on its second or third replacement since the house was built — or, less often, an original unit's grandchild that's still 12–18 years old. At that age, the question isn't just what broke but whether it's worth fixing: a $170–$260 shift actuator or drain pump on a machine that's otherwise running fine is an easy yes, but a failed motor or control board on a washer past 12 years is where we'll tell you honestly if a new machine is the better spend. We also check the fill hoses and water inlet valve on anything over 10 years old — Irvine Ranch Water District's supply runs moderately hard, and mineral buildup inside an inlet valve screen is a common reason an older washer fills slowly or shuts off with a "check faucet" code long before anything else on the machine has failed.
Whatever the age or building type, most washer repairs in Irvine finish in a single same-day visit — the $95 diagnostic fee is waived if you go ahead with the repair. See our Orange County washer repair guide for cost ranges and error codes by brand, or start with washing machine won't drain — what to check first. We also repair refrigerators, dryers, dishwashers, and ovens throughout Irvine — see all brands we service.
A microwave call in Irvine tells us a lot before we even ring the doorbell, because which decade the kitchen was built in changes what's actually broken. Here's what we're checking for depending on where the house sits.
Builder packages in these newer villages almost always installed an over-the-range (OTR) combo unit — GE or Samsung most often — that does double duty as the range hood and vent fan. When someone tells us "the microwave broke," it's frequently the vent fan motor or the interior cavity light that's actually failed, since both sit on the same control board as the cooking circuit but are separate failure points from the magnetron. A true no-heat failure on a unit this age is uncommon and worth a second look before assuming the worst — we test the door interlock switches and the vent motor separately so you're not paying to replace a magnetron that was never the problem.
Original construction here often built the microwave into the cabinetry above or beside the wall oven, and a lot of those built-in slots have had two or three replacement units cycle through since the house went up. At this age the door interlock switches — most microwaves wire two or three of them in series — are the single most common failure: the unit hums, the light comes on, the turntable spins, and it still never heats because the safety circuit never closes. That's a $90–$150 fix, and a lot cheaper than the cabinetry work involved in swapping the whole built-in slot for a different-size replacement unit, which is why we always check the switches first rather than assuming the unit is done.
Same buildings we mentioned above for stacked washers — Woodbridge, Turtle Rock, and University Park complexes built for UCI-adjacent renters — mostly run countertop microwaves in tight kitchens. A tenant with a $60–$90 countertop unit is usually better off replacing it outright than paying a service call. Where we get regular work is from the property managers: a building with forty matching units wants the same brand and model repaired and standardized across turnovers rather than a mismatched replacement moving in every time a tenant's microwave dies, so we keep records of which model each building standardized on.
Almost always the mica waveguide cover — the small panel inside the cavity that shields the waveguide from grease splatter. It thins out over years of cooking and starts arcing at the weak spot; the part is $20–$40, labor $80–$140 depending on how buried it is in that model. This is the one we see most in rental units that have passed through several tenants without the cavity ever being wiped down. For the full breakdown on diode failures, magnetron replacement costs, and control board pricing, see our Orange County microwave oven repair guide — the same failure points apply across Irvine, just distributed differently by neighborhood age. Most microwave repairs in Irvine run $90–$280 and finish same-day; the $95 diagnostic fee is waived if you go ahead with the repair.
Vent-length problems get most of the attention with dryers, and we cover those elsewhere — see our Orange County washer and dryer repair guide for heating-element, igniter, and thermal-fuse pricing. What's specific to Irvine is less about the vent and more about the age and layout of the machine itself, so here's what actually differs by neighborhood.
Builder packages here are almost all LG or Samsung electronic dryers that shut off based on a moisture sensor rather than a fixed timer. The sensor is a pair of thin metal contact bars just inside the front of the drum — a lint film builds up on them over months of use and insulates them from the damp fabric, so the dryer reads the load as dry when it isn't and cuts the cycle short. Wiping the bars with rubbing alcohol fixes most of these calls for free. If cycles still run long or the display throws a sensor fault after that, the sensor strip itself has usually failed electrically, which is a $120–$200 part-and-labor job rather than the control board — we test the sensor circuit directly before ever quoting the board.
These are the same stacked closets we mentioned for washers, and the dryers in them are frequently the original replacement unit's second or third generation — old enough that the drum support rollers and idler pulley have worn flat. A rhythmic thump that speeds up with drum speed is almost always the rollers or glides, $130–$220 depending on model; a loud metallic scrape usually means the rear drum bearing has gone, which is a bigger tear-down at $220–$320 because the drum has to come out. On a stacked unit we budget extra time regardless, since the dryer has to be partially unstacked to reach the back panel either way — worth mentioning when you call so we bring the right tech and don't burn half the visit on logistics.
Same story as the microwave calls above: student and grad-family tenants rotate through University Park and the Diamond Jamboree corridor every year or two, lint traps go uncleaned between move-outs, and overloaded loads run the belt and rollers harder than a single-family household would. Property managers with a building full of matching stacked units get more value from a standard rebuild kit (belt, rollers, idler pulley together) at turnover than waiting for each part to fail on its own — we keep notes on which kit fits which building's model.
If a gas dryer won't ignite at all — no click, no smell, nothing — we check the gas valve coil (solenoid) before the igniter itself; a failed coil never opens the valve so the igniter glows for nothing, and replacing it runs $140–$220. If you ever smell gas near the dryer, don't run it — turn off the supply valve and call us the same day rather than troubleshooting it yourself. Most dryer repairs in Irvine run $120–$320 and finish same-day; the $95 diagnostic fee is waived if you go ahead with the repair.
A cooktop call is a different diagnosis from a full range, and which failure we expect depends heavily on when the kitchen was built — Irvine's mix of 1970s–80s tract kitchens, 2000s remodels, and 2016-and-newer Great Park builds each standardized on a different cooktop technology, so here's what we actually check first by type.
Sealed-burner gas cooktops run every burner head off a single spark module through individual electrodes, so the pattern of the failure tells us which part is bad before we even lift the grates. One burner clicking weakly or not at all is almost always that burner's electrode fouled with boiled-over food residue or a hairline crack in its ceramic base — a $15–$30 electrode swap fixes most single-burner complaints, and we clean the igniter gap first since a buildup of grease can mimic a bad electrode for free. If every burner on the cooktop stays completely silent when you turn the knob, the spark module itself has failed, which runs $150–$230 installed.
Original electric cooktops from Irvine's 1970s–80s build-out are usually plug-in coil elements — a burner with no glow at all is a straightforward $40–$70 element swap, no tools beyond a screwdriver. Kitchens remodeled since the 2000s more often went with a smooth glass-top radiant cooktop instead, and there a dead zone with the display and clock still working is nearly always either the infinite switch feeding that specific zone or the radiant element itself burned out under the glass — the two look identical from the counter, so we test the switch's resistance before ordering either part, $120–$200 depending on which one it turns out to be.
A growing share of builder kitchens in these newer villages spec a 30″ or 36″ induction cooktop — GE Profile, Bosch, and Café are the three we see most — instead of gas. A dead cooking zone with the touch display still lit is almost never the glass itself; it's the induction coil board underneath losing a driver component, and because induction boards are model-specific and carry more electronics than a gas spark module, that repair runs $280–$450 installed rather than the $150–$230 we'd quote on a gas module. An intermittent "use correct size pan" error with a pan that's clearly compatible usually points to the pan-detection sensor coil rather than the board, which is the cheaper fix of the two — we test both before quoting.
Custom and remodeled kitchens throughout Irvine increasingly run a 36″–48″ pro-style gas cooktop from Wolf, Thermador, or Viking instead of a builder-grade unit. These use continuous cast-iron grates and the same spark-module wiring as their built-in ranges, just spread across more burners — parts are stocked for decades on these brands, so a spark module or burner valve repair is almost always the right call over replacing a $3,000+ cooktop. Most cooktop repairs in Irvine, gas or induction, finish in a single same-day visit — the $95 diagnostic fee is waived if you go ahead with the repair. See all brands we service or our guide on a Wolf range igniter that keeps clicking for the closely related range-top failure.
$95 diagnostic fee, waived when you proceed with repair. Most repairs in Irvine run $120–$350 including parts and labor. You get an upfront quote before we start.
Yes — we offer same-day appliance repair in Irvine, CA. Call (949) 527-6264 before noon for the best chance of a same-day slot.
All major brands: Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Bosch, Sub-Zero, KitchenAid, Maytag, Kenmore, Frigidaire, Viking, Miele, and more.
Yes — 90-day parts and labor warranty on all repairs done in Irvine and throughout Orange County.
Call or text — we'll get a technician to your home same-day.
Call (949) 527-6264